Bumpass Hell is a Funny Name & Stinks Too

We woke early, feasted on packaged donuts, downed coffee or juice or water, fed the dog, prepared lunches, gathered ‘layers’, straightened the campsite and locked down the bikes, and set out for Lassen National Park. Our campground is about four miles east of Shingletown along State Route 44. The 15-mile drive to the Manzanita Lake entrance in Lassen cuts through the thick pine forest where the tall, thin pines line up tight along the edge of the road.

The group paused briefly just inside the Northwest Entrance Station to visit the Loomis Museum and stroll the grounds around Manzanita Lake. The museum commemorates the last substantial eruption of Lassen Peak in 1914 and is named for the photographer who documented the blast in a series of images reminiscent of the famous Mount St. Helen’s photographs. We found a bridge beneath the museum and the boys discovered that sloughed-off bark and cones from the Jeffrey, Ponderosa and Sugar pines (some of which were football size) made great boats for the stream wending down toward the lake. A couple of pictures and postcard purchases, and we were off.

Loomis Museum

Bark, sticks and pine cones make excellent boats

The group paused for lunch at the King’s Creek Picnic Area and set off for a 1.5 mile round trip hike up to Cold Boiling Lake where the edges of the lake ‘boil’ from gases released beneath the cold alpine water. Along the path, we discovered a cluster of perhaps 50 twelve-spotted skimmer dragonflies buzzing around an area above a large white boulder just off the main trail and above the lake.

Picnic at King’s Creek

Austin and Ronan show the ‘cool’ way to eat Doritos

Austin and Stacey standing at the shore of Cold Boiling Lake

The entire team (left to right): Angela, Ronan, Travis, Brett, Mark, Colby, Austin, Stacey and Asher

Dragonfly tries to hide among the pebbles and needles

In the shadow of Lassen Peak, we pulled off to admire the unusual slate-blue water of Lake Helen. The boys, myself included, found skipping rocks across the smooth water too alluring to pass up and the group lingered – sitting amidst the scree, counting ripples and staring at the reflection of Lassen Peak on the surface of the lake.

Angela and Ronan laughing on the shore of Helen Lake

Rock throwing contest

Perhaps 500 yards down the road, we found the trailhead for Bumpass Hell and started our 3.5 mile round trip hike along a narrow track skirting the ridge just above Little Hot Springs Valley over to the sulfuric bowl. The hike wasn’t overly challenging, but was tougher for the younger members of our group. Even before you see Bumpass Hell, the stench lets you know you’re close. Then, wooden boardwalks take over as the trail for the final stretch and consist mostly of railing-less perches above the steaming and bubbling pots. (As a side note, it’s worth reading the story behind the name of this point of interest as it explains why caution must be taken.) Most of the ground here is yellowed or bleached clay and looks dangerous to anyone foolish enough to deviate from the prescribed path line. Here too we lingered perhaps longer than expected given the pungent vapors, but it was such an otherworldly place to visit.

Sisyphus (Mark) pushing the proverbial boulder up the mountain

Angela and Stacey

On the trail to Bumpass Hell

Steam rising from Bumpass Hell in the distance

Stacey and Brett on the boardwalk

The extensive network of boardwalks keep hikers safe from the scalding water and boiling mud

A bubbling mudpot

So, boys, how does it smell?

Asher, Angela, Mark and Ronan

Stacey, Travis, Austin (front), Colby and Brett

The turquoise pond and wildflowers

After dinner, Brett and I set up an outdoor theater using a picnic blanket, an Optoma mini-projector, a Bose iPod docking station and my MacBook Pro. We MacGuyver’d it together using all sorts of adapters and cords. It was a hit with the kids who sat around a campfire watching “Despicable Me 2,” and eating S’mores and popcorn until bedtime.